More Greenhouse Fun

Small Green House Plan from North Carolina Cooperative Extension

Ive learned a lot from stuff posted online about how to create hoop houses. Probably the most useful document to date is "A Small Backyard Greenhouse for the Home Gardener" from the North Carolina Cooperative Extension. The instructions give you a 14-foot long greenhouse that is 12 feet wide and 6 feet high.

But I dont have space for a full-up hoop house. Ive been messing around with powerpoint, trying to figure out how to fit a 300 gallon tank and six 50-gallon grow beds into an 8-foot wide space in the minimum length. I think Ive got it:

Ill talk about the aquaponics layout later. For now it is sufficient to say that I should be able to fit everything in a 8 foot wide by 14 foot long footprint.

Instead of PVC pipe, Ill be constructing the body of my greenhouse out of 1/2" Electric Metallic Tube (EMT) conduit. Conduit is pretty inexpensive, running just over $2 for a 10 length. Its stronger than PVC, and I can bend it to the shape shown above.

In fact, Ive figured out the "recipe." Conduit benders can be had for ~$30, and are marked for bends of standard size (10, 22.5, 30, 45, and 60 degrees). If youve not used a conduit bender before, know that the "center" of even a shallow bend will be 1-2 inches offset from the start of the bend. Many benders will have a mark that shows the location of "the exact center of a 45 degree bend." No matter what angle you bend, the center will be pretty close to that 45 degree center mark, so position your tubing accordingly.

1. Mark the pipe in the middle (5) and make marks 8", 21", and 34" from either end.
   
2. Bend the pipe 22.5 degrees at the 5 mark. [From this point on it is useful to get a partner who can hold the pipe so the rest of the bends are in the same plane.]
   
3. Move the conduit bender to the 8" mark and make a 60 degree bend.
   
4. Move the conduit bender to the 21" mark and make a 10 degree bend.
   
5. Move the conduit bender to the 34" mark and make another 10 degree bend.
   
6. Flip the pipe and bend the other side (60 degrees at 8", 10 degrees at both 21" and 34")
   

When youre done, your ten foot pipe should look like this, and the distance between the two leg-stubs should be 8 feet. Or at least, when I did this, this is what my pipe ended up looking like:

This shape minimizes height delta between the edge and center of the structure, provides strength along the roof "faces," and gives a peak at the center to help shed snow. For a 14-foot long greenhouse with frames every 2 feet, youll be making 8 of these "tops." If they dont lay flat, you can do some "correction" with the conduit bender.

Next, create 16 EMT "legs" by cutting 10-foot lengths in half with a pipe cutter or hack saw. These legs will be connected to the tops using EMT set-screw couplings. Position the set screws so they face the inside of the frame, so they wont snag the plastic sheeting youll be draping over your structure.

From this point you can pretty much follow the instructions for the North Carolina hoop house from the top of this post. But instead of a wide, short semi-circle, your greenhouse will be only 8 feet wide and about 7 feet high. Also, you will be installing a simple door in each of the two end walls, so you can access the beds on either side of the fish tank.

Two last points - I plan to screw three 14-foot lengths of EMT to the frames with EMT 2-hole straps and zinc sheet metal screws. These will serve as a ridge pole and lateral stiffeners. Also, since part of the location where Im putting this is brick patio, I plan to connect the greenhouse to a support under the fish tank. I figure 300 gallons of water (2,400 pounds!) is enough to keep the house from "shifting."

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Cleaning New Gravel and Pipe Size

Cleaning Gravel:

Yesterday I cleaned about 5 cubic feet of new gravel.  In the past I have used progressive tubs and a bucket filled with holes.  I would start at one end and work my way down three or four barrels of progressively cleaner water.  This proved to be insufficient and the barrels became quite dirty very quickly which meant that I would constantly have to start over with more clean water.

But yesterday I used a small cement mixer.  Id put 10 shovel fulls of gravel in and filled it with water.  Then turn the mixer on for 15 seconds, and dump the water.  I did do this about 7 or 8 times until the water was running clear.

This next step may not be necessary, but then I did a final rinse in a white bucket.  I was able to easily see how clean the water was in the white bucket, and two quick rinses generally finished the job.

It took a few hours to perform this cleaning, but after several bad experiences with cloudy water, Im very happy with the results.  Today my water is perfectly clear.  

Pipe Size:

A couple months ago I added 10 feet of 1-1/4" pipe to the line from my fish tank to the grow bed.  It has worked well until recently when I noticed that the water in the fish tank was beginning to raise.  Closer inspection of the pipe revealed that gunk had built up on the surface and was slowing the water down.   I replaced the pipe with a clean 2" pipe.   Ill let you know in a few months how that worked out.   Im feeling confident that this is going to work out much better.    As a general rule Id say 2" or larger pipe should be used everywhere.

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Microbial Fuel Cell

On October 4th 2013 I began an experimenting with Microbial Fuel Cells.   My initial experiment consisted of a piece of carbon fiber cloth 36” x 4” which I placed in the water of my aquaponic system.  The bacteria grew on this cloth.  After nine days  I measured the voltage at .97 millivolt (mv) using a stainless steel cathode of approximately 6"x8" .   

http://backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17566&p=416193#p416193

While there are some similarities Microbial Fuel Cells are not the same as a BEAMR (BioElectrochemically Assisted Microbial Reactor) which is basically a Hydroxy gas generator.   

Several years ago I was very involved with the creation of Hydroxy gas.  Commonly known as HHO or Browns Gas.  By using electrolysis and electrolyte such as KOH (Potassium Hydroxide)  water is separated into hydrogen (H2) and oxygen (O2) in a 2:1 molar ratio.  These two gases violently wish to be reunited and all it takes is a spark.  This gas has some good applications, but it requires more power to create the hydroxy gas than the gas will return as a fuel source.  Some people have found benefit when injected along with fuel into engines that do not have
I mention this because you may find this technique while researching Microbial Fuel Cells and fall victim to the misguided ideas surrounding the creation of hydroxy gas.  

Microbial Fuel Cells are batteries created by the energy produced by the bacteria.  I cant say it any better than what has been written on Wikipedia so I will quote the entire first paragraph.

"A microbial fuel cell (MFC) or biological fuel cell is a bio-electrochemical system that drives a current by mimicking bacterial interactions found in nature. MFCs can be grouped into two general categories, those that use a mediator and those that are mediator-less. The first MFCs, demonstrated in the early 20th century, used a mediator, this is a chemical that transfers electrons from the bacteria in the cell to the anode. Mediator-less MFCs are a more recent development dating to the 1970s; in this type of MFC bacteria in mediator-less MFCs typically have electrochemically active redox proteins such as cytochromes on their outer membrane that can transfer electrons directly to the anode.^[1] Since the turn of the 21st century MFCs have started to find a commercial use in the treatment of wastewate"

A little more research indicates that a MFC (Microbial Fuel Cell) must use anaerobic conditions. In aerobic conditions bacteria are free to use near by oxygen for the electron they wish to transfer. The anaerobic condition leaves only the cathode exposed to available electrons from oxygen. This creates the electrical difference between the anode and the cathode.

But I did measure a very small voltage of  97 mv on Oct 12 2013, so maybe maybe the process would be better in an anaerobic condition, but still prove viable in aerobic conditions. Ill come back to this in a few weeks and post the results.  It may improve as the bacteria continues to grow on the cloth.

It was just two days ago that I measured 97 mv... I tested the voltage again today Oct 14 2013 and found that if I moved the cathode closer to the anode I could get 300 mv!

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Loss of Appetite

UPDATE 8/9/2012
I know it must seem like Im always correcting myself with these updates, but Im documenting the learning experience and attempting to pass on knowledge as I learn it.  Many times it appears that I have understood the problem at the time, but as more information appears this changes on occation.  

A few days ago I found small red worms, and at first thought they were Camallanus, but it turned out to be Midge.  Midge is a great food for fish, and it was only after transferring my fish to the raft so that I could better care for them that I figured that out.   The fish have not shown the excitement they used to show when fed, and I wonder if this is because they were feeding on Midge worms, and have become spoiled.  Simple fish food must seem tasteless to them now, and I suspect this is the reason for their lack of appetite.

ORIGINAL POST:
For about six weeks my fish have not been eating as aggressively as they used to. 
They have been showing signs of breeding, and I attributed this to the loss of appetite.

But it was about the same time I added Dr Iron iron chelate. 
The iron made the water quite brown, and I also observed some algae on the walls of the tank, and in the water which I attributed to warmer weather. 
So the cloudy water did not concern me, and my assumption remains that iron chelate is not harmful to the fish, but its definitely not to be dismissed.   
The Iron Chelate level has dropped from 0.5 ppm to 0.1 ppm over the past three weeks.  Today I bumped that up again with 60ml of Dr Iron .
 
Before the fish began to loose their appetite I began to allow the salt levels to become depleted in an effort to see what affect if any a 0.15% salt level has on plants.
I let the salt level drop to zero over the course of a couple months.   That experiment was trashed when a leak developed in my grow bed, and I had to remove all the media and plants. 
The bacteria took a small hit but I was able to preserve, and restore the bacteria within a few days by using a small wet/dry bio filter.
Two days ago I began to bring the salt levels back up since I have very few plants left in the grow bed to experiment with.  Im now using this system for starting seeds and growing outdoors in my other system.

After bringing the salt up to only 0.9% the water cleared the fish began to eat better.
Ill continue to watch the fish to see if their appetite continues to improve, but since I have several variables going on Im still trying to figure out what it is that caused the loss of appetite.   It might be simply salt levels, but I feel that there is more to it than that.  Maybe there was enough algae in the tank to keep them satisfied. Im also  pretty sure they are also eating their young even though I have tried to provide a safe areas for the fry to escape into.

I added FE2 today, so I should be able to tell if this is the cause or not.  Ill update this post as I learn more.

UPDATE July 22, 2012 
After adding the FE2 on July 16 the water became dark again.   The fish seemed to feed a little less aggressively, but they did not ignore the food like before.  A week later they are eating better.   Dr Iron contains Phosphate 5%:  Potash (K2O) 8%;  Iron (Fe)  8%  so there are other ingredients beyond FE2 and it may be that this may be causing the fish to temporarily eat less.

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A Close Look

Paul Holowko is the Host and Producer of the TV show Gardening Rhythms
Gardening Rhythms shows natural gardening methods,
scientific technology and organic methods for land & soil
creation and regeneration.  See website for times and
channels.

www.GardeningRhythms.com
Follow onTwitter  @pholowko" 

He has made many excellent presentations.  Below are a few of my favorites

Soil Food Web – Predator-Prey Protists Bacteria Fungi Microarthropods in an Aerobic Environment

Paul has also made a very nice web page for identifying garden bugs  CLICK HERE to identify pest by pictures

No Description

Video 1.

Published on Dec 28, 2012

The thin layer where soil and litter meet is especially crucial to this process. This layer of soil is the most biologically active; many species of microarthropods thrive only in the interface between soil and litter.

Video 2.

Published on Dec 28, 2012

Microarthropods video for a fly larva.
Microarthropods are important components of the soil decomposer food web. Organic matter is a major influence on microarthropod abundance and diversity. Conservation practices that increase soil organic matter improve soil quality by supporting the development of the soil biotic community. Microarthropods and other small soil animals are visible (sometimes barely so) but miniscule; most require some level of magnification for identification. Many microarthropods, especially springtails and soil mites, are responsible for breaking down organic material into a form that bacteria can consume, and are fundamental to the creation of humus and the formation of soil.

The thin layer where soil and litter meet is especially crucial to this process. This layer of soil is the most biologically active; many species of microarthropods thrive only in the interface between soil and litter.

Video 3.

Published on Dec 28, 2012

Protozoa are a diverse group of unicellular eukaryotic organisms. Protozoa were regarded as the partner group of protists to protophyta, which have plant-like behavior like photosynthesis. Below are some videos showing Protozoan in action. All videos are taken at 400X magnification. Some have flagellum (whip like tales) and others have cilium (hairy edges). As a cysts (can go dormant in bad times), protozoa can survive harsh conditions, such as exposure to extreme temperatures or harmful chemicals, or long periods without access to nutrients, water, or oxygen for a period of time.

Video 4.

Published on Dec 28, 2012

Bacteria are vital in recycling nutrients, with many steps in nutrient cycles depending on these organisms, such as the fixation of nitrogen from the atmosphere and putrefaction. In the biological communities surrounding hydrothermal vents and cold seeps, bacteria provide the nutrients needed to sustain life by converting dissolved compounds such as hydrogen sulphide (H2S)and methane (CH4).

Video 5.

Published on Dec 28, 2012

The nematodes or roundworms are traditionally regarded as the phylum Nematoda. Nematodes, (small worms) have successfully adapted to nearly every ecosystem from marine to fresh water, to soils, and from the Polar Regions to the tropics, as well as the highest to the lowest of elevations. The oral cavity is lined with cuticle, which is often strengthened with ridges or other structures, and, especially in carnivorous species, may bear a number of teeth. The mouth often includes a sharp stylet, which the animal can thrust into its prey. In some species, the stylet is hollow, and can be used to suck liquids from plants or animals.

Video 6.

Published on Dec 28, 2012

Protozoa are a diverse group of unicellular eukaryotic organisms. Protozoa were regarded as the partner group of protists to protophyta, which have plant-like behavior like photosynthesis. Below are some videos showing Protozoan in action. All videos are taken at 400X magnification. Some have flagellum (whip like tales) and others have cilium (hairy edges). As a cysts (can go dormant in bad times), protozoa can survive harsh conditions, such as exposure to extreme temperatures or harmful chemicals, or long periods without access to nutrients, water, or oxygen for a period of time.

Take a look at Dusan Benos Bug Portraits Gallery.
Click this link then place your cursor on the pictures and click on the arrows to see all 20 pictures

Black Soldier Fly by Dusan Beno

Buzzer Midge by Dusan Beno

This is my favorite site for insect identification.  http://bugguide.net/node/view/15740

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Worms worms everywhere

Redworm, one of many things fish love to eat

My mother gave my husband a brilliant gift for Fathers Day - composting worms. 1000 Eisenia Foetidae or Red Wrigglers, to be exact. She ordered them from Uncle Jims Worm Farm at the same time she bought her own worms and composter.

Reading the instructions, I realized for the first time that composting worms are different from your standard earthworm. Id been popping worms from my yard into my growbeds, assuming that was "good enough." Hasnt hurt, but it seems red wrigglers will work even better.

A few benefits of worms in aquaponics:

1) They turn scraps into rich, fertile compost. The stuff is called "worm castings," but its worm poop. Manure on a micro scale. [I wonder if worms are considered "animals" for the purposes of granting food safety certification. Since theyre cold blooded, they dont harbor e.coli in their guts any more than do fish.]

2) No need to wash your grow media after initial system setup. The worms will clear out left over roots and stuff.

3) Supplemental food for your fish. Worms double their population in short order (90 days, if I remember correctly). They stop reproducing when they reach the maximum sustainable density, so their is no worry that they will start spilling out all over. But this rapid population growth and/or population replacement means you can snag out a few from time to time as a treat for your fish without worrying that you are fundamentally damaging the efficacy of your worm population to process compost.

4) A worm population in your grow beds can keep your system working between batches of fish. In fact, some folks rely entirely on worms for their ammonia source. This is referred to as Vermiponics. Alas, vermiponics appears to be a new movement, to the point where there isnt even a wikipedia article describing vermiponics and its history.

A downside of worms is their need for bedding material and decomposing scraps. On the other hand, I produce more than enough paper and cardboard as a byproduct of modern life to keep my worms happy.

Now that I know regular earthworms arent as "good" as red wrigglers for composting, Ive started taking to tipping found worms into my fish tank, where I used to tip them into my growbeds. Its been gratifying to see the enthusiasm with which fish consume the worms, even dead and slightly dessicated worms.

Next biological enhancement to the system will be black soldier fly larvae - they should be en route right now. Should be fun!

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Photography Improvised macro lens mould study

I got another lens from a junk bin in a camera store.

This one is a canon f 1.4, 35-80mm zoom.

It has an auto focus motor that makes a sound a bit like you might hear if you put a blender in a blender, but the auto focus still works.

The bits that dont work so well, are the lenses.

The problem is mould inside the lens.

Not uprising for a 500 Yen lens sitting in the junk bin of a camera store in the country that invented humidity.


Thats a ridiculously close up shot of the mould.

Ridiculously close up.





I dont have any way of doing macro shots with my new camera, so I had to improvise.

I took the shot of the mould with this home made bit of kit.

The blue lens cloth is there to keep the light out of the improvised macro lens, because the small length of toilet roll acting as an extension tube  isnt light tight.

The lens attached (thats a generous description) to the camera is actually on backwards, and is resting against the other end of the toilet roll tube.

The lens resting on the red kitchen scrubber is the new one with the mould garden inside.



The torch is a torch.

The torch is there because the cameras lens has the aperture set as small as it will go (f36) to try to get at least some of the mould in focus.

I didnt really achieve that.

The exposures were around 30 seconds long (many minutes without the torch), and other people were working in the house at the time. My desk is a wobbly kitchen table top heavy with old CRT computer monitors, and all the other junk I like to keep at hand. As as a result it amplifies any movement from people, traffic, and the fridge and freezer compressors.

If you put a glass of water on a desk like mine and look at the reflection, you will see the reflected image dance all over the place. Normally it isnt a problem, because the camera and lens would both move at the same time, but with this contraption, there was nothing of substance connecting the lens and the camera.

Tricky.

Anyway...

The lens has mould in it.

The image on the left was taken with the canon 18-55mm lens that came with the camera.

The image on the right is taken with the mouldy 35-80mm lens.

The camera was set to the same settings for both shots.



Mould is not a friend of the lens.

The point of all this, is to point out that I wont be taking an angle grinder to my lens in some future post  without reason.

Actually Ill try to open it up and clean it, but there is a fair chance its bits of glass are coated in a very delicate plastic coating, called coating. If thats the case the mould may have become a permanent fixture by etching its way into the coated bits.

The mould appears to be on only one element, so I might be able to salvage some other bits and make a proper, mould-free macro lens.



120 Things in 20 years warns that when I say "proper" I mean the improvised macro lens might employ slightly fewer toilet paper tubes, and where they are unavoidable, they might be made a bit less wobbly and light leaky.

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