Showing posts with label a. Show all posts
Showing posts with label a. Show all posts

Entomology A bee!

All last summer there were no bees, and I had to polinate everything by hand.

The closest thing to a bee in the last year Ive seen, was a dead one at my mums house 10 minutes drive away from my house.

No bees.

They are all dying out everywhere on the planet.

Colony collapse disorder I think its called.

But I saw one, alive and kicking in my backyard today.

After chasing it around for half an hour as it frantically tried to escape my shade cloth I finally got a pic of it.

Thanks rapid fire camera maker.

Tis a poor pic, but it does prove a bee still lives.







120 Things in 20 years - Entomology - Yay BEE!
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Water manifold for a solar heater


Many people get the idea to heat water after attempting to drink from a hose that has been laying in the sun.  The water is hot so wouldnt it be easy to get a 100 of black irrigation tubing a coil it up. Yes this will heat water but there are problems involved with this method.

First is poor efficiency. As the water travels the length of the tube it begins to quickly gain heat, but the hotter it gets the slower it gains additional heat.  It would be better to use several short lengths to warm the water only as much as you need.  Adjusting the optimum length is more than I wish to get into, but with some experimentation you will find a range that suits your needs.

Another problem with one long coil is resistance to flow.  The longer you make the tube the slower the water will flow.  A manifold  can solve both these problems. Fabricating a manifold may appeal to some DIY folks, but hot tubs often use manifolds and so they are readily available for about $10.00
Water Manifold 2"S x 2"S (6) 3/4" Ports



Its been pointed out to me that a better choice would be CPVC due to the high temperatures these systems can reach especially when not in use and the water is not moving.

Flow Gaurd MultiPort CPVC Manifold

By using several short lengths you will increase the effective diameter and reduce the resistance as well as the demands on your pump.

Dont forget to use a high temperature water pump.  They are easy to find, but this is an important consideration that could be over looked.

Also the roof may look like an ideal place for a solar collector but you will have to have a pump tha can provide enough head pressure which will influence the cost of the pump and your choice of locations for the collector.
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A Vital Movement

Im having fun, and watch my nutrient levels like a hawk.  I feel obligated to do this because these vegetables are expensive.

The one thing the aquaponic experience has done for me is give me a much greater appreciation for the food I buy at the grocery store.  While Im delighted to eat a fresh tomato even if a worm has put a small hole in it; I would not buy that same produce at the store.

I think about it every time I shop at Costco.  Enormous quantities of perfect produce everyday.  People are always bad mouthing current farming practices, but when it comes down to it, the commercial production of food is a lot more difficult than most people realize.

Aquaponics has been around for a long time, but it seems that its only now beginning to catch on.  With droughts and population explosion I feel that our experimentation, and sharing of information is contributing to a vital movement toward small household food production which will help carry many of us through rough times.  Some of us may go on to create commercial systems which will take agriculture back to a less destructive method once we understand the problems we are likely to face, but we are all making a collective difference.

Aquaponics is not without fault as it does tend to influence the genetic makeup of the fish we are breeding.  But it may also help to relieve the stress of over fishing.

So I look at my $3000.00 tomato, and know that its not about that tomato, but a contribution to the greater good, and enjoyment of creating my own food.

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Methane Powering a Town Near You

People who use Methane (in science fiction, at least)


Dr. Jaron Hansen has figured out how to convert waste into nearly-pure methane gas.

Hansen didnt invent the basic idea. Animals have been producing gas from waste since forever. But raw gas from anaerobic digestion of waste contains more than just methane. It also contains carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide.

Hydrogen sulfide is the part of gaseous and solid animal waste that stinks. Its also corrosive as all get out, which has previously made methane from waste impractical except in science fiction.

But Dr. Hansen has invented an inexpensive biogas conditioning system that removes most all the carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide from waste gas. The resulting gas is 98% pure methane gas, making it affordable to create electricity and fuel from trash.

"One of the projects is with a dairy in Alberta, UT on a project to use the manure from cows as energy. The waste from 8,000 cows has the potential to generate 1.2 megawatts of electricity...enough to power 1,200 homes..."

Another project in Ogden, Utah, is using cow manure to produce biodiesel. Dr. Hansen produced the first batch just two months ago (January 2011).

I cant tell you how cool I think this is, but perhaps a story from my past will illuminate why the thought of turning manure into useful energy will suffice.

A Personal Experience with Waste

I mentioned my brief experience being a farm girl back in November (My Roots, Part 1). But I didnt tell you about the day Mom slept in.

I was kindergarten age, and my brother was about 2 years younger. While Mom slept, we gamboled about the farm, a veritable fantasy land to our tiny selves. It was full of mysterious little buildings, with arcane delights like a full set of mink paws laid out to dry in the rafters of the garage.

That day I remember playing in the broad, flat field. It was hard under our feet, and nothing grew there.

Then I came upon the hole.

In the midst of flatness, the hole stretched down into darkness. I did what any curious 5-year-old might do, unfettered by adult caution or supervision.

I jumped into the unknown.

The first sensation was sound. The splashing, sucking sound my keds made as they hit the not-solid bottom.

The second sensation was smell, as the wet, moist depths let off puffs of hydrogen sulfide.

The third sensation was fear, as I realized the walls of the hole werent solid. I wouldnt be able to climb out.

I screamed, and my three-year-old brother peered over the edge. An eternity later, my mother peered over the edge. Moments later I was free.

I probably got hosed down and was likely asked to stay inside. Decades later I found out the rest of the story. Mom and Dad had spent the prior evening extracting a cow from the manure after it fell through the crust. Hence why she was exhausted and why there was a mysterious hole in the middle of our "play ground."
________________________

So, hooray for Dr. Hansen and his system for turning manure into useful energy. If his system had existed those decades ago, I could have enjoyed a bright, well-fueled childhood, unmarred by memories of dark terror in a sulfurous pit.
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Thinking meat based analogue communication

So...
We used to have this bird named "Spork".
Sometimes he was named "Pogo" because he didnt have enough legs. (he always didnt have enough legs, he just wasnt always called pogo (that sounds suspiciously like something Clevinger (Catch 22) might say)) (and whats with all the nested parenthesis?)))
Anyway...
Spork lived in a sectioned off bit of the house near my desk where I spent most of the day, so we got pretty close. As close as a human that really likes magpies can get to a magpie that almost always hates humans. I say "almost", because if you turned him on his back with his one leg in the air, he would relax so much you could push him around on the floor like a kid playing with a matchbox car. If you tried that when he was upright, hed peck your eyes out in a heartbeat. One of his fast bird heartbeats as well, not some dopey slow human heartbeat. Except Shaan when she offered Spork her (maybe smurf) keyring. Sporked liked Shaan and her keyring.
Anyway... I would whistle "Doo, du do du, and he would instantly reply "Do du do, du dooo do". It was almost as if he could help himself. He had to finish the tune. (I originally taught him the entire tune, but it took the first few notes for him to realise that it was time to sing)
We had to give him up when we had to move back to the flat lands from Cudlee Creek. We also miss all the other creatures we shared our lives with (a goat, an emu, a pig, three sheep, an owl, and various chickens) all still missed terribly.
Anyway... Some nice bird rescue people took in Spork to live with all their other magpies, a magpie loving dog that protected them all from foxes, and a parrot that nobody could understand because it spoke too fast. I suggested it was horse race calling as a result of being pre-owned by a gambler with a radio, and there was a general agreement that that might just be the case.
Really odd sulphur crested cockatoo.
But... it occurred to me that Spork now lived only 30 km away as the crow flies.
Thats only 5 magpie families or so. The other night I found myself trying to teach my local magpies the first (my) half of the tune so they might in turn teach the next groups radiating out from them. I managed to add one extra note to the current call of my local group, but interestingly I managed to get a complete (my half) call from a group further in the distance.
So, so far so good. So, so. You dont see the word "so" followed by the word "so" that much.
And... once I teach the local magpies the first half of the tune and get them to teach the next closets magpies( and so on, and so on), in 5-30 years or so, I hope to hear the second half of the tune (Sporks half) in reply.
Bam!
If so, I expect a Nobel prize for developing very slow, organic, analogue communication, and creating the first "bird meat" based communication protocol that doesnt require tying things to their feet.


120 things in 20 years - So... thats where my life is at.
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Keeping a log

Keeping a record of your water chemistry and environment can help you understand the cause of any problems you may have later.

Here is a spreadsheet that I use to record my data.

You may choose to take samples less often, but since my system is still new I feel that every day is best for me.

Edit as you see fit.

This is an Open Office Spread Sheet.   (Please support Open Source programing and information.)


Click Here for ODS file
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Photography Hack a macro lens from a zoom lens

I decided to make a more permanent macro lens.

The improvised one here was just too crazy to use. Everything had to be held together with tape, string, and luck.

It turns out its pretty easy to hack a macro lens, if you already have a short zoom lens you dont need.

There are a lot of canon kit lenses that came with the cameras floating around out there for only a few dollars. The best price I saw was $3.98 US.

The lens Im using is a canon EF 35-80mm zoom. I got it for free from someone who paid around $5 for it in Japan.

 The first step is to find some screws that might let you get inside.

The object here is to remove the front lens element.

My screws were found under a sticker, but different lenses hide the screws in different places.




Removing the sticker revealed 3 screws.

The sticker is useless after you remove it, so dont try this unless you want the change to be permanent.

Thats the wrinkled corpse of the sticker in the background.




Undo the screws.











This allows the top lens element to be removed.

This lens cluster does the focusing as far as I can tell.

At this point you can take a macro shot, but the lens will leak a lot of light onto your censor. The black plastic surround covers a gap between the outer lens casing, and the inner sleeve that controls the zoom.



In my lens, it wasnt possible to remove the lens from the plastic surround, so I had to cut it off.

If you were trying to do this as a temporary thing, and wanted to try it before you commit, all you need to do is cover the lens front with something light proof with a hole around 2cm in diameter in the centre.

Im guessing gaffer tape would work well.



The main thing is to create a cover for the gap between the outer casing and the inner zoom sleeve.

The lenses are of no use, but the plastic surround is very useful, because it has a screw thread to take filters.

A clear glass filter, or a UV filter will be the thing that keeps dust out of the lens.

The large black plastic thing is the bit we are keeping.



There was an extra hole that I filled with a screw to keep everything light tight.










A clear glass filter, and its all done.












The results are pleasantly surprising. The original lens could zoom into around 6cm in width. This is closer to 1cm.

The focus ring no longer does anything, but the zoom still zooms. 

There are two ways to focus. 

Moving the camera or the subject until the scene is in focus is where you start. The distance from the lens that the subject needs to be is only around 5cm. Once you have the subject roughly in place, you can use the zoom to change the point thats in sharp focus. 

The zoom also works as a zoom, and changes the field of view between 12mm and 25mm from one extreme to the other. ie at full zoom (as per the shot of the pencil, you can fill the frame with a 12mm object)

All in all, not quite as functional as a proper zoom lens, but for $5 it represents a pretty good compromise, and something Id call a total success.





120 Things in 20 years - If canon just made the front lens element removable, I wouldnt have needed to do this lens hack to convert a zoom lens to a macro. 

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Photography New to me Canon EOS 20D camera

My new camera is a lot like my old camera in so far as they both take pictures, and they are both 8 megapixel cameras.

But after that they diverge a bit.

The Sanyo Xacti that Ive been using for the last 1300 photos Ive taken was gifted at me by someone (Thanks anonymous company) when I really needed a replacement because all the point and shoot digital cameras Ive bought to make this blog (I think its 3 now) fall over just after 5000 happy snaps.

5000 seems like a lot when I put it in print, but in terms of time, that equates to less than a year per camera.  Sure they cost less than AU$100, but I still want more than a year out of anything I buy.

This one that Ive been using is still going strong, and does a pretty good job of it I suppose, but I found the interface very heavy going.

It has quite a few options and features, but all of them have to be accessed via a clunky multi-level menu system. That means that every time you want to do anything other than what its set to do now, you have to explore a stack of menus to finally find what you need, and by the time youve found it, the ladybird has finished eating its aphid, and flown away.

My new camera on the other hand is a zillion times better to work with. Ive only had it for around 10 hours, but it already feels comfortable.

Its taken around 1200 pictures so far in its life.

I have very greasy fingers.

Im eating zucchini and haloumi fritters.

Delicious.


The new camera is a Canon 20D. It was originally sold for around AU$1500 (Australian dollar) in 2004, and was described as a "semi-professional" or "prosumer" camera at the time, which of course means substantially more than other imaginary words and their associated imaginary metrics.

But on the whole, the camera rocks.

Thats my official rating out of 5.

It has a 4 GB CF memory card, which is the size of a bulky circa 2012 64GB mp3 player, and that cost around the same as a bulky circa 2012 64GB mp3 player. It takes a while to transfer photos, but it has very nice functionality, and best of all has an interface that works.

It also comes with some nice lumps of glass in the lens. It seems to be the lens that lets down lots of little point and shoot cameras. The quality of the photos taken by my new 8 megapixel camera is a lot better than those Ive taken with an 8 megapixel point and shoot style camera.

The second lens feels a bit like it might blow away, but at $10 its a very nice thing to have around.

The camera came with a Canon 18-55mm f3.5 image lens, with image stabalizer. Ive just discovered I love image stabalizing. Image stabalizing allows you to be a bit shakey, and have the lens do some stuff to fix it.

As I understand it, there are exactly two ways to do image stabilizing.

  • 1. Project an image onto the censor, so that the image is a little larger than the censor, and the image has some extra image in the margins. Then have the camera track your shakey projection, and then use magic or software or something to knit together a nice crisp image.
  • 2. Track some points on the image, and move the lens around a bit so that any given point on the censor always sees the same bit of the image, or move the censor to achieve the same thing.
  • 3. Use gyroscopes mounted on at least two axes to resist the movement of the entire camera. Things spinning around like to keep doing it. If you take the tire off your bike (stop first) and hold the axle while someone else spins it as fast as they can, it becomes difficult to change the angle its on. This is why a spinning top (do they still have those?) stays upright, and is simply due to the universe being an amazing place.
Amazing!

The camera shows its age through its 8 megapixelness, as at the time of writing, thats about 16 megapixels short of where it should be.

I bought it from a second hand camera store in Japan for $150 with the Canon 18-55mm zoom, and I got the second lens, a Tamron 100-300 zoom, for $10 from the bargain bin.

Thanks Tom.

Toms a friend of mine.

Hes really good at buying way too much camera gear from junk bins. His hobby includes buying those instamatic film cameras that were big in the 70s. He likes to buy them when they have rolls of film still in them so he can process the film. In some subtle way, thats slightly different from buying some old photos.

Which is nice.

For him.

Hes kind of a time traveller, but he only gets to look, and doesnt get to choose what he looks at.

Mostly he gets to look at darkness.

Sometimes darkness, but with slightly mouldy edges.

Luckily, I dont suffer from collecting things other than my collection of odd people I know.

Toms one of my favourites.

Thanks Tom.




120 Things in 20 years - One of the best parts about getting my new, second hand Canon 20D camera, was getting to look at the Japanese supermarket junkmail it was packed in. Its been 20 years since I was in Japan, and the junkmail paper is now of even better quality.


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Thinking 懐かしい

????


Now theres a word we need an English equivalent to.

Why is my native language so incomplete? 

I want my money back!


120 Things in 20 years is slightly disappointed!

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A List of Double Up Food Bucks Locations in Albuquerque and Valencia County


Thanks to an initiative approved by the State Legislature this year, New Mexicans who receive food stamps can use their EBT cards to double the amount of fruits and vegetables they purchase at growers markets. Here is a list, courtesy of the New Mexico Farmers Marketing Association, of locations in the Albuquerque area and Valencia County that offer the Double-Up Food Bucks option.
  • ABQ Uptown Growers’ Market 2200 Louisiana Boulevard NE, Albuquerque (Saturdays 7AM–12PM)
  • Albuquerque Downtown Growers’ Market Central and 8th, Robinson Park, Albuquerque (Saturdays 8AM–12PM)
  • Albuquerque Growers’ Market at Presbyterian 1100 Central Ave. SE, Albuquerque (Tuesdays 7AM–12PM)
  • Albuquerque: Rail Yards Market 777 1st St. SW, Albuquerque (Sundays 10AM–2PM)
  • Belen Growers’ Market Anna Becker Park, Highway 309 & Reinken Avenue, Belen (Fridays 4:30–7PM)
  • Bosque Farms Growers’ Market 1090 North Bosque Loop, Bosque Farms (Saturdays 8AM–12PM)
  • Los Lunas Farmers’ Market 3447 Lambros Circle, Los Lunas (Tuesdays 4PM–7PM)
  • South Valley Armijo Village Growers’ Market Isleta Blvd. and Arenal Rd. SW, Albuquerque (Saturdays 8AM–12PM)
  • South Valley Gateway Growers’ Market 100 Isleta Blvd. SW, Albuquerque (Thursdays 5PM–8PM) 
  • Zia Bernalillo Farmers Market 335 S. Camino del Pueblo (Fridays 4pm-7pm)
Double-Up Food Bucks benefits are also available in Alamogordo, Aztec, Cuba, Carlsbad, Clovis, Dixon, Española, Farmington, Las Cruces, Las Vegas (Tri-County Farmers Market), Lordsburg, Mescalero, Mora, Pojoaque, Portales, Ramah, Santa Fe, Silver City, Socorro, Truth or Consequences (Sierra County Farmers Market), Taos and Tucumcari. Click Here to find specific information about each of these markets. 
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PVC PVC as a thermoplastic

It turns out, PVC isnt just my favourite product to work with, its also a thermoplastic.

Who knew?

I should have remembered the thing I read back when I was making aquaponics grow tubes, but you dont know what Im talking about, so theres probably no point in referencing it.

But on the up side, there is a point to this post.

And thats that PVC is even more excellent than I first thought.

It turns out (not my idea) that PVC can be heated, formed into a new shape, then cooled so it sets and stays with its new shape.

Youve gotta be happy with that.

PVC, but whatever shape you want!

I started by holding part of the delivery system from my demand fish feeder under a candle until it got a bit hot.

Im always torn between the desire to keep a museum of the things I build as part of doing this "120 things in 20 years" caper, and grabbing a lump of kit from a previous project and reusing it at the expense of said project.

Oh well, I guess if its worth building, its worth building again.
The next step was to squish it a bit.

The steps after this include trying to make it fit the fillet knife I keep ominously lurking in my little tackle box.

Thatsit there in blue.






I say ominously because when Im fishing, it tends to be used to hack at somewhat suspect portions of slightly off bait sitting in the sun, then when I get home, I expect it to shed its immuno-challenging persona with a quick wash n a soapy sink, and stop threatening to cut me and give me some hideous infection.

I also expect it to get suddenly sharp enough to fillet fish.

Sometimes I expect too much.

But this time it turns out I oddly expect around about whats reasonable to expect.

This is mainly due to my sudden understanding of how to make stuff sharp. Ive been using a honing steel for the last 20 years to keep my kitchen knives useful, but for some reason, suddenly I now seem to be able to make them half again as sharp. (((see chunking) actually see the top of the chunking article because that makes more sense) or this if you want to skip the links...

If you learn Morse code, you learn it gradually for a bit, then suddenly instead of thinking of the word "and" as...

dot dash blah blah
blah blah blah
blah dash etc

you start to know it as a single entity in much the same way as you originally knew the individual letters. ie the group "and" becomes the 27th letter of the alphabet. The result is that the learning process is non-linear, and you tend to gain new ability in "chunks" rather than gradually.)

Why am I distractedly talking about chunking motor tasks?...

So...

Sharp is much better.

And oddly safer.

Anyway, the result is that now, more than ever, I need a sheath for the razor blade that rattles around in my tackle box and kitchen.

The knife in question is only an inexpensive thing, and it doesnt hold an edge for long, but it does readily allow itself to take on a scary sharpness. I guess theres a compromise between gaining an edge, and keeping an edge, and this inexpensive fillet knife has chosen as its lot in life, to be way sharp. At least for a bit.

Quite useful for fish filleting really.

PVC is a thermoplastic!...

The "holding it over a flame" thing works a bit, but its a little tricky softening the entire thing so you can bend the entire thing all at once.

But boiling water made that a whole heap easier.

If you dont have an enormous pot of boiling water, I recommend you send any kids safely away for the afternoon, and just dump boiling water all over the place in order to heat up your PVC.





It actually doesnt take that much.

Im guessing a hair dryer would do it.

I used half a cutting board, and a sizzling steak hotplate holder to squish it flat after I heated it to bendy point.

You could also just step on it.

Its quite soft, and cures to its new shape in only a few seconds.




The result was something that looked a lot like a folded flat length of PVC pipe.

Actually this is (obviously) the result of a different method, but both ended with a folded length of PVC tubing.

This one was done with the aid of two clamps, and pouring boiling water all over the house.




There are probably a dozen more ways to do it.

Heat it, then squish it flat.

This post has derailed a bit, so to re-cap, Im making a knife sheath from PVC pipe by heating it and reforming it to shape.

Place your knife over the top of the flattened PVC envelope, and loosely trace around it with some kind of marking device leaving around a centimetre of excess white space around the blade.

I used a pen, but you could also use whatever marking method your culture enjoys.






Next I cut out the shape with tin snips, scissors, and a hacksaw to test as many methods I could find at hand. Thats why this photo actually came before the last.

Yeah...

time can do that.


The result was the start of a pretty convincing knife sheath.










I drilled a few holes.











I added a loop rubber band made from a slice of bicycle tyre inner tube (bicycle tyre inner tube rubber bands last around 25,000 years longer than normal rubber bands)









The loop will hook over the handle and act as the fail safe, and might allow me to wear it in a way that might be a little more practical than hanging it on a belt.










And a few more holes to snug it all up tight to the blade with some multi-strand artificial fibre twine and we are done.

I count this as a total success.

Much less dangerous.

And now probably safe enough to take on an epic adventure.



It will still need to be washed after using it to handle bait, but at the moment I cant see a way past that as a compromise.

If you try it yourself, make sure there is a bit of space between the PVC folds at the sharp end to allow water to pass through when you wash it, and also make sure the bindings pull the PVC together tight enough that the blade can never touch the binding twine. The easiest way to achieve this is to not take the bindings all the way to the tip of the sharp end. And to stick something in the end when you are heat-forming the sheath. However you do it, try to make sure you can see through the sheath when its empty, to allow rinsing the sheath.

I found that after it was finished, heating the entire thing while the blade was removed, and bending it slightly from end to end, made the blade sit a bit tighter. Enough so that you could could hold the sheathed knife upside down and shake it, (without the safety rubber band) and the knife would not fall out of the sheath.

A total success, and definitely some tech that I will add to the ever growing grab bag of tricks that I might employ to solve something, somewhere, one day.




120 Things in 20 years just came back from a quick trip into the future, and found its all made of PVC...

and theres some 3D printed concrete housing.

but the futures definitely made mostly of PVC.
























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Making smoked foods A better way to brine

If like me you have no room in your fridge for a bucket full of meat when youre brining, try putting into an icebox.

Throw some ice in with it and youre set.


120 Things in 20 years  thinks this might be a record shortest post ever.
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Electronics Aquaponics Demand feeder lever

Probably the most difficult single thing to deal with in making my demand feeder has been working out the lever.

But as usual I called upon chance to solve it for me.

Thanks chance.

For some reason I remembered playing with a switch I bought when I was making the first version of this demand feeder. The switch was one that is a button, and turns on then off again after you lift your finger.

Its sideways click seemed nice to the touch.

The one pictured (centre front) is the same, but is on an old circuit board. I cant find my original version.



Its quite long for a momentary switch.


The interesting thing about these particular, particularly long momentary switches, is they they do their switching thing if you tilt the button to the side rather than just press it. I just tested this one and it works.

They also work if you press it, but its the sideways switchyness that interests me. It should be perfect as the lever the fish hit, because they can hit it from any direction and it should trigger.




Now all I need to do is figure out which brand they are, and if they all work like that. It might be the case that only some of them do this. It might be a manufacturing error rather than a feature.

Perhaps manufacturing error is too harsh.

Perhaps manufacturing  tolerance would be better.

Either way, I might be able to use it.



120 Things in 20 years - As luck might have it, for the next few days, you might find me in electronics stores with a multimeter, trying to find a switch for my electronic, aquaponics demand feeder lever.


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Great deal on a Greenhouse


The Harbor Freight 10 ft. x 12 ft. greenhouse is nicely affordable. You cant get a store-bought greenhouse of this size for anything close to the $850 Harbor Freight price.

Because its spring, Harbor Freight has reduced the price on their 10x12 greenhouse by $50. At my local store, the sale is good through the end of May.

Better yet, you can get an additional 20% off through May 15th (google Harbor Freight coupon).

So if you have the 20% coupon and go to the store, you can pick up a 10x12 greenhouse for only $640 (plus tax). If you have to have it shipped, tack on $100 S&H.

This greenhouse gets decent reviews. Typical problems can be overcome cheaply. YouTube has numerous videos on "Harbor Freight greenhouse improvements." John at Growing Your Greens gives a nice overview of possible improvements (fast forward to 4:40). An additional idea is sealing the edges of the panels with waterproof aluminum tape.

If you, like me, dont need a greenhouse at the moment, check out the sale price on the 45 watt solar panel kit. Its not as cool as a Solman 135 watt generator, but its easier on the budget...

15 May update - Found another possible greenhouse option at Home Depot. Id have to modify my layout to fit the 10 ft. x 10 ft. footprint, but Im sure I could get it to work. $249 delivered straight to my door is rather attractive (though my community covenants would still prohibit me using this particular product since its 8 ft. tall ::pout::).

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Choosing a Pump

The first consideration is external or submersible.  The reasons you may wish to go with an external pump is power consumption and GPH.  Submersibles are easier to install, and generally less expensive, but the most efficient pumps are external. Some pumps can be run as either external inline or submersible.

This is not to say all external pumps are efficient. Many are power gluttons so be sure to check    
Some pumps actually consume less than the rated value.  Perhaps they rate their pumps at maximum power dissipation before failure.  We can only go by the number they specify unless you have access to the pump and make your own measurements.
For example a Max-Flo 960 GPH for $106 will be less expensive at the end of the year compared to an ActiveAqua 1000 GPH for $57.00.
They both pump about the same GPH, but the Max-Flo uses 35 Watts less energy.
That will save you 25 KWH per month if run 24/7.

External pumps generally move more water.   My experience has shown that waterfalls need at least 2500 to 3000 GPH.   Aquaponic systems generally require a pump that match the size of the fish tank.  Ive read 2-1/2 times the size of the tank with head loss is about right.  That ratio is probably negotiable.

Head pressure is the height the pump stops pumping water.  Some pumps are designed to move water efficiently with little change in height.  Others are designed to lift water.  You will have to find a pump that fulfills your needs without loosing too much efficiency to lift.  In the comparisons below my calculations for Gallons / Watt are based on zero lift.  Your final decision should be calculated with your required lift in mind.  You will have to consult the head loss specifications which are generally provided. 

If you choose to use a submersible you should be aware that some are filled with transformer oil.  Hardly something you would want to leak into your fish tank or pond.  Ive had it happen twice so make certain it says No Oil.  Oil is used to offset the water pressure, and keep it out of the motor compartment.  But there are better ways to deal with this.

Epoxy filled pumps encase the motor winding in epoxy.   The permanent magnet which drives the impeller is allowed to sit in the water.  Epoxy filled pumps are in my opinion the best way to go if you are buying a submersible pump.  Oil filled are OK as a utility pump such as pumping out a flooded basement.

The impeller is often driven by way of a V-notched disk which allows it to slip if it becomes stuck, but the V-notch often becomes worn, and then impeller fails to pump any water at all.  So I try to avoid pumps that use this cheap V-notch clutch.   Other  methods use magnetically connected impellers or direct drive impellers.

Continuous duty operation is important to both a pond or aquaponic system.  The most vulnerable parts are the impeller and the bearings.  Some pumps are designed to allow these parts to be replaced.  Others are designed to be thrown away or the parts are so expensive it becomes a throw away.

Quiet operation is a consideration.  As the bearings wear any external pump will become louder, but its nice to start out quiet, and when you begin to hear the pump its time to think about repairs or replacement as it will not be long before it fails. 



Some of the more efficient pumps are listed below.
Submersible pumps in the  700 - 3100  GPH range
External        pumps in the 2400 - 4000 GPH range.

External Inline Pumps
Dolphin 115V Amp Master Series Pump
3900 GPH
161 Watts (24.2 G/W)
 $392.06
ReeFlo 2500/4300 External Pump with Saltwater Seals
2500 or 4300 GPH
105 Watts  (23.8 G/W)
or
4300 GPH
175 Watts  (24.6 G/W)
$299.00
AZFlo 2400/4000 External Pump by ReeFlo
2400 or 4000 GPH
105 Watts  (22.9 G/W)
or
4000 GPH
175 Watts  (22.9 G/W)
$309.00
PondMaster Supreme Inline/Direct Drive HyDrive Skimmer Pond Pump
Saltwater OK
3200 GPH
200 Watts  (16.0 G/W)
$217.82
Pondmaster Magnetic Drive Waterfall/Skimmer Pond Pump
2000 GPH
150 Watts  (13.3 G/W)
$139.00
Alpine Waterfall Hurricane Pond Pump
3100 GPH
175 Watts  (17.7 G/W)
$139.99
CalPump Waterfall Pond Pump
3500 GPH
205 Watts  (17.1 G/W)
$149.00

For many years I  have used a
Sequence 750 Pump 3600SEQ12 -3600 GPH
They seem to last about 3 years which is when the warranty runs out.
3600 GPH at zero head and 2400 at six feet.
They consume 139 Watts  ( 25.9 G/W)
and cost $289.00
 

Submersible Pumps
Laguna Fountain And Statuary Water Pond Pump
750 GPH
112 Watts  (6.7 G/W)
$90.00
Pondmaster Mag Drive Pond Pump
700 GPH
60 Watts  (11.7 G/W)
$94.99
Pondmaster Mag Drive Pond Pump
950 GPH
93 Watts  (10.2 G/W)
$109.99
Alpine Hurricane Pump
3100 GPH
175 Watts (17.7 G/W)
120.00

All but the Alpine Hurricane pump are available at AZ Ponds
I have bought many pumps from AZ Ponds and like doing business with them.
I used to like doing business with them. This last time they failed to send a tracking number.  After I called they said they would call back and never have.  They are on my shit list.

I also have a submersible Alpine Hurricane Pump 2400GPH
2400 GPH at zero head and 1751 at six feet.
The specs show that it consumes 157 Watts  (15.3 G/W),
but my measurements show that it uses only 128 Watts for (18.8 G/W)
It costs $129.00, but I found  on sale for $58.00!
This is a really nice Oil-Free, Magnetic-driven, Epoxy Protected, Ceramic Shaft & Impeller pump with a three year warranty.

Here is another excellent article about pumps.
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Stirling engines A complete history of Engines


Some time ago, somebody invented the steam engine. The steam engine works by heating water in an airtight container to make steam. The steam is massively expanded water, and the result is lots of pressure.  Once you have lots of pressure you bleed a bit of that pressure intermittently into a piston, and the piston gets pushed. Connect that to a crank, and you have rotational motion, and an industrial revolution. You also have lots of factory workers being blown up in hideous, explosive  accidents, with all the screaming, and loss of productivity that goes with being killed.

Later someone invented the internal combustion engine, and the turbine engine. These run on fossil fuel. They had a pretty good run until somebody discovered it was making us sick and killing everyone.

The turbine engine is a big thing you tend to stick to the ground in a power plant and make electricity. That way the factories could all have much safer working conditions where hardly anyone ever got blown up, but it also kills the earth a bit. Just a little every day. And sometimes some of them explode anyway. Thats not so good, because some use uranium to make the heat, and that never ends well.

Anyway...

The internal combustion engine tends to be used in portable things like cars, because they pack such a lot of punch for such a small weight in fuel. They also kill the world, just a little bit each day, and sometimes explode, and sometimes just mash into each other, and mash into other things that tend to be near roads. They do a lot of mashing.

The main advantage with the turbine, and internal combustion engines, is that they spread out the damage. Just one or two people from any given factory at any given time get killed by them rather than taking out half the factorys workforce all in one go like a steam engine disaster might. The mayhem and disaster is spread out so that each factory takes just a small share of the disruption to productivity. Except perhaps with the uranium stuff. I think thats why Australia is shipping all our uranium to distant countries. To move it as far away as possible.

Anyway...

A Stirling engine on the other hand is a slightly more peaceful beast that doesnt really do a lot, but what it does, it does pretty thoughtfully. Historically it fits between the steam engine and the stuff we use today (2013, just in case someone reads this in 40 years). The Stirling engine is an engine that uses the difference in heat between two of its bits of kit, to make stuff spin around without all the explosions.

There.

Thats the design description out of the way.

Its very safe, because it doesnt have a pressurised container. It needs a source of heat, but that can be solar, or waste heat from something else. Rotting compost, your wireless router, whatever. They are not a very powerful engine, which is why the internal combustion engine took over, and they are not very responsive to sudden changes in desired power output. Thats also why the internal combustion engine took over. And they are not very powerful... Internal combustion engine blah blah blah.

So...

The most beneficial thing as far as Im concerned is that they wont blow up and kill me.

Theyre not very useful. But thats not going to stop me making one.

The kind of thing that will stop me making one, is more likely to be that I have no idea how.

Ive never made an engine before, and have also never met anyone who has, but it turns out they are a pretty simple kind of beast, and with a bit of luck, wire, string, and the total combined wealth of human knowledge stored on the Internet, I might be able to make one.

People are very clever, and there are some really helpful ones out there that are willing to help me.

Ill be trying to make a very small Stirling engine that runs on the power of a small candle, that will do no work, but will hopefully work.



120 Things in 20 years - Stirling engine - It might go round and round.





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How To Make a Check Valve

Check valves are handy but they can be expensive.
Here are two similar ideas that you can build for very little cash.

How To Make a One-Way Check Valve - For Cheap!!

 

Making A Zero Back Pressure Check Valve

 

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Epic adventurer Lifestraw

My Lifestraw was delivered today!

A Lifestraw is a very cool device for personal water filtration. Its guaranteed to deliver 1000 litres of clean safe drinking water from any dodgy water source. The Murray River is one big dodgy water source, so a it fits the bill perfectly.

It looks like this, and weighs almost nothing.

According to the packaging, it does what all the other water treatment methods claim or better.

Apparently, my little Lifestraw removes 99.9999% of waterborne bacteria, 99.9% of waterborne parasites, and provides a minimum of 1000 litres of clean drinking water.

I also bought a PermaNet 2.0 mosquito net that not only claims to keep mosquitoes at a safe distance, but also kills them when they land on it. That means the world health organisation thinks its ok to use me as bait.

Fair enough I guess.

So basically my Lifestraw is a stack of tiny straws crammed into a tube with a sippy cup mouthpiece at one end. You stick the blunt end into a stock trough, or creek you dont quite trust, and drink through the mouthpiece as if it were a gigantic straw, and bam! you keep living.

My PermaNet 2.0 is a mosquito net.
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Stirling engines Balloon Power pistons

My original balloon power piston looked like this.

It had a connecting rod glued to the centre, and the other end of that rod connected to the cam shaft. The result was that as the air was heated in the chamber with the displacer, it expanded, filled this balloon, and pushed up the connecting rod.





I think it also pulls as the air cools and contracts, but that isnt very obvious either way. In that video (see link in first sentence) you can see the balloon inflating and giving the connecting rod a little push.

Im amazed that the air can expand and contract at such a high frequency. Im amazed these things work at all.

My power piston design was a little rough, and to be honest I was lucky that it worked at all.

The balloon kept slipping around under its rubber bands, making the connecting rod feel some resistance as the balloon reached its limits of free movement. The result was some extra friction where it wasnt necessary.

What I need is a bit more room for error.

With that in mind, I did some research and found what I think might be a useful design, and also came up with one myself that might work pretty well.

I found this one in use already and mine was made from a balloon neck, and a plastic bottle top.

To start with I created a plastic disk around 25mm in diameter by trimming off the sides of a plastic bottle cap. 

It was pretty easy to do with scissors, and a cut that went in a spiral gradually cutting away the side.





I also have a copper elbow that will be the power pistons basic form.

This will take the place of the ungainly plastic bottle with the hole hacked into the side as seen in the top-most picture on this post.
I cut the neck off a balloon and inserted the plastic disk. The connecting rod would be glued to the centre of this disk at the top.

The cut end of the neck is stretched over the copper elbow so that it looks like this when at its highest. (this would be the end of the power stroke)




And like this at its lowest.

It looks quite neat, and this is probably the design Ill use unless it proves to require too much air expansion to fill it.







My design includes the same section of balloon neck, and a cable tie to secure the top.

I tightened the cable tie with pliers  and then cut the rest of the balloon away with scissors.







It looks like this at its lowest. Or near its lowest.

It might be the case that this design will prove useful when used entirely at the low end. It requires much lass change in air volume to move 10mm up or down from its pictured position.







I have no idea if it will be of any benefit to use this (green) design, but It should be easy enough to try both with my adjustable cam shaft.




120 Things in 20 years - When it comes to balloon power pistons for Stirling engines, I have standards above which, I will not go.
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A Close Look


Paul Holowko is the Host and Producer of the TV show Gardening Rhythms
Gardening Rhythms shows natural gardening methods,
scientific technology and organic methods for land & soil
creation and regeneration.  See website for times and
channels.

www.GardeningRhythms.com
Follow onTwitter  @pholowko" 


He has made many excellent presentations.  Below are a few of my favorites

Soil Food Web – Predator-Prey Protists Bacteria Fungi Microarthropods in an Aerobic Environment


Paul has also made a very nice web page for identifying garden bugs  CLICK HERE to identify pest by pictures

No Description

Video 1.
Published on Dec 28, 2012

The thin layer where soil and litter meet is especially crucial to this process. This layer of soil is the most biologically active; many species of microarthropods thrive only in the interface between soil and litter.
Video 2.
Published on Dec 28, 2012
Microarthropods video for a fly larva.
Microarthropods are important components of the soil decomposer food web. Organic matter is a major influence on microarthropod abundance and diversity. Conservation practices that increase soil organic matter improve soil quality by supporting the development of the soil biotic community. Microarthropods and other small soil animals are visible (sometimes barely so) but miniscule; most require some level of magnification for identification. Many microarthropods, especially springtails and soil mites, are responsible for breaking down organic material into a form that bacteria can consume, and are fundamental to the creation of humus and the formation of soil.

The thin layer where soil and litter meet is especially crucial to this process. This layer of soil is the most biologically active; many species of microarthropods thrive only in the interface between soil and litter.
Video 3.
Published on Dec 28, 2012
Protozoa are a diverse group of unicellular eukaryotic organisms. Protozoa were regarded as the partner group of protists to protophyta, which have plant-like behavior like photosynthesis. Below are some videos showing Protozoan in action. All videos are taken at 400X magnification. Some have flagellum (whip like tales) and others have cilium (hairy edges). As a cysts (can go dormant in bad times), protozoa can survive harsh conditions, such as exposure to extreme temperatures or harmful chemicals, or long periods without access to nutrients, water, or oxygen for a period of time.
Video 4.
Published on Dec 28, 2012
Bacteria are vital in recycling nutrients, with many steps in nutrient cycles depending on these organisms, such as the fixation of nitrogen from the atmosphere and putrefaction. In the biological communities surrounding hydrothermal vents and cold seeps, bacteria provide the nutrients needed to sustain life by converting dissolved compounds such as hydrogen sulphide (H2S)and methane (CH4).
Video 5.
Published on Dec 28, 2012
The nematodes or roundworms are traditionally regarded as the phylum Nematoda. Nematodes, (small worms) have successfully adapted to nearly every ecosystem from marine to fresh water, to soils, and from the Polar Regions to the tropics, as well as the highest to the lowest of elevations. The oral cavity is lined with cuticle, which is often strengthened with ridges or other structures, and, especially in carnivorous species, may bear a number of teeth. The mouth often includes a sharp stylet, which the animal can thrust into its prey. In some species, the stylet is hollow, and can be used to suck liquids from plants or animals.
Video 6.
Published on Dec 28, 2012
Protozoa are a diverse group of unicellular eukaryotic organisms. Protozoa were regarded as the partner group of protists to protophyta, which have plant-like behavior like photosynthesis. Below are some videos showing Protozoan in action. All videos are taken at 400X magnification. Some have flagellum (whip like tales) and others have cilium (hairy edges). As a cysts (can go dormant in bad times), protozoa can survive harsh conditions, such as exposure to extreme temperatures or harmful chemicals, or long periods without access to nutrients, water, or oxygen for a period of time.




Take a look at Dusan Benos Bug Portraits Gallery.
Click this link then place your cursor on the pictures and click on the arrows to see all 20 pictures

Black Soldier Fly by Dusan Beno
Buzzer Midge by Dusan Beno

This is my favorite site for insect identification.  http://bugguide.net/node/view/15740
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